Friday, 21 March 2014

S/S 15: Intertextiles print analysis

By Pauline Cheung WGSN, 14 March 2014
Florals explode into action in expressive painterly compositions for spring/summer 2015 using novelty textures to add a tactile surface dimension.


CASA Fashion Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

trend checklist

  • Abstract arthouse: expressive confident brushstrokes in bright palettes mix dense splatters and  washes, creating lively compositions with an extreme abstract feel
  • Painterly florals: ethereal blurred floral prints are soft and dreamy. Prints are playful and naive with hand-drawn botanical elements, working well on sheer fabrications and cottons
  • Graphic art: a 1980s graphic approach to prints with a raw, hand illustrated monochrome style
  • Ink washed: bleeding, stained and bleached. It is purposeful and elegant on silky bases and on  cottons for casual looks

Abstract tropics

Highly energetic and abstract print compositions are seen for spring/summer 2015 with an overall tropical mood. Leafy botanical fauna and lush greenery, realised with an arthouse feel using expressive paint strokes and naive bold colour, are complimented by an abundance of greens with splashes of bright yellow and reds working well for the high-summer season.

Joyteks Incorporated at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shinwoo Textile Print Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Zhejiang Taihua New Material Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Zhejiang Rainbow Village Printing and Dyeing Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Foshan City Sanshui Wholly Tone Dyeing & Printing at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shijiazhuange Changshan Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Watercolour florals

Intense and full of movement, large scale floral watercolour prints with strong saturated colour tones are created from layers of tonal colour, with a feminine and abstract feel.
Shin Hwa at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shanghai Rentex Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
China Tuhsu Lealand Int at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Dreamy

Hazy florals printed on semi-transparent bases like organzas and sheer cottons keeps a translucent ethereal dream-like mood. Embossed surfaces create gentle dimension with soft coloured pastels and diffused brights, working well for the spring/summer 2015 season.
Wujiang Deyi Fashion Cloths Co. Ltd. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Milior at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shin Hwa at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Dimensional bases

Out-of-focus, blurred inky prints on fabric bases such as burn-out silks, crepes, jacquards, mesh and intricate laces slightly alter the appearance of florals creating a filtered effect in-line with WGSN's SS15 Fashion forecast, Focus.
Konak Fashion Fabrics at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shaoxing Yonson Industry & Trade at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Max Vogue at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Max Vogue at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Rosso Amaranto at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Wujiang Deyi Fashion Cloths Co. Ltd. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

3D florals

Using different application methods to create dimension such as flocking, embroidery, appliqué, burn-outs, and embossing, overprinting techniques are seen on sheer and opaque surfaces with simple naive floral designs.
Hangzhou Silk Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shaoxing County Jingtong Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shanghai New Leads Imp & Exp at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Yingrui Industries at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shaoxing County Shuanghao Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Wujiang Findtex Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Ink washed

Bleeding dye effects with hand-drawn floral motifs on satins, and inky stains spread over cottons and casual shirting checks create patterns that emerge organically.
Changzhou Create Textile Printing and Dyeing Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shanghai New Leads Imp & Exp at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Frizza SpA at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Ludia at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Nantong Yueye Textile Co. Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shanghai New Leads Imp & Exp at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Graphic scribbles

Keeping an 80s Pop art feel, as seen in WGSN’s Bio Dynamic trend, intentional scribbles with a Sharpie or crayola are appealingly simple, keeping lines optical, bold and striking. Playful, almost blacks with veridian and black on parchment give a modern alternative to a classic monochromatic palette.
Lingfeng Group at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shaoxing Yonson Industry Trade at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shanghai Dore Textile Co., Ltd. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Hyup Sung T.R.D. Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Hi-Tec Industrial at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Silkway Textiles at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Everest Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Hangzhou Meho Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shaoxing Yonson Industry & Trade

Playful organics

Childhood days of doodling and filling white space build up complex organic designs and layers of colour.
Liberty Art Fabrics at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shaoxing Leesun Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Liberty Art Fabrics at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Spots

This season sees a continuation of the classic spot, layered over floral prints as well as irregular spots with added print treatments. These 3D applications - from flocking and burn-out effects - bring the spots to life by creating playful dimensional variations to touch, and are popular for womenswear and denim.
Contentex International at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Miroglio Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
CASA Fashion Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shaoxing Kemailong Trade Co Ltd. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Jeong In Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
CASA Fashion Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Bleached out florals

Pre-wash bleached prints and shadow florals are seen in mid-scale and small motif-like ditsys for denim.
Changzhou Create Textile Printing & Dyeing Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Changzhou Create Textile Printing & Dyeing Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Jiangyin Hengliang Textile Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Paisley

Emerging - previously not a strong contender in China's domestic market - paisley updates in cleaner colour tones working well for men’s shirtings and denim as bleached graphic motifs. See WGSN’s Bio Dynamic trend for more inspiration.
Liberty Art Fabrics at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shins Co. Ltd. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Zhejiang Xinlan Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Tribal

Bold geometric patterns with ikat patterns and tribal-inspired motifs are important. Fabric manipulations such as crinkle, slubby knits give added dimension for a hand-crafted feeling. See History 2.0 for more inspiration.
Joytex Incorporated at Intertextile 2014
Shanghai New Leads Imp & Exp at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Texway Inc at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Huzhou Boxu Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Scenic Inc. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Hyup Sung T.R.D. Co Ltd. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Digital skin

Surreal skin patterns are formed with digital print overlays of reptile and animal skin on silk blend burn-outs. Opt for the addition of lamé for a fluid metallic shine and textural finish.
Joytex Incorporated at Intertextile 2014
Shins Co. Ltd. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Daewoong Global at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Hangzhou Meho Textiles Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Wujiang Hsenzm Fashion Fabric Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Frizza SpA at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Shanghai New Leads Imp & Exp at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Amiti J C Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Silkway Textiles at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Abstract camo

Both classic and abstract variations of camouflage patterns appear this season on laminated nylons and polyester blends for outerwear; slubby knits are pigment printed and washed. Fresh colour offerings appear to be bright and youthful for a sports-inspired, urban camo look.

Superwill Industrial at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Milior at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Tessitura Monti at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Huzhou Boxu Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Beijing Daaotex Trade Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
CASA Fashion Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Biboren Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Jiangsu Shenghong Fabric at Intertextile spring/summer 2015
Jiangyin Xingwu Woolen Technology Co Ltd. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

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