(By Pauline Cheung WGSN, 17 March 2014)

Yarn-dyed checks get creative this season featuring revitalising colours and focusing on surface interest, complementing native patterns that also continue to be influential.

Somelos Tecidos at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Trend checklist

Versatile checks: are important for men’s casual shirting with a focus on quiet textures in striking mid-tones. For womenswear, retracted textures on semi-sheer qualities and seersucker textures in residual brights are key
Micro motifs: tribal-inspired motifs created with dobby weaves are seen in denim qualities. A super-soft hand feel with a laundered worn-in appeal also features
Native patterns: global influences are still key for casual looks with rustic tweeds and geometric jacquard structures playing a main role for jacket weights and separates
Retracted surfaces: become more adventurous this season with lots of movement. Think dimensional surfaces such as cloqué structures and jacquard weaves

Versatile checks

In line with the S/S 15 textile forecast checks stay versatile with revitalising colour combinations. Patchwork designs and overdye effects work well for the youth markets. Double-faced qualities are an alternative for mid-weight shirtings, and are great for transitional spring weather.

Huafang Group Yarn Dyed Fabric Co at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Mileta at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Teviz by Polopique at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Nantong Yueye Textile Co at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Nantong Rongxu Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Asiatex Dyeing & Finishing at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Wujiang Deyi Fashion Cloths Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Texway Inc at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

J View Fashion Co at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Energetic plaids

With fresh bursts of lively and blocky colour, plaids are a firm staple for spring/summer 2015. Tactile surfaces are key, with dobby textures, seersucker and crinkle surfaces adding more visual interest.

Zhejiang Saintyear Textile Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Crinkle Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Jiangsu Pinytex Textile Dyeing and Finishing at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Nantong Dongbang Textiles Co ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Jiangsu Huaye Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Crinkle Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Nantong Yueye Textile Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Jiangsu Huaye Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Nantong Dongbang Textiles Co ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Rustic tweeds

Rustic tweeds are inspired by rich cultural references from around the world. Colours are tonal and play with the patterns of distorted structures and broken stripe patterns enhanced by the occasional bright burst of coloured neps. See more inspiration from WGSN’s Fashion Forecast History 2.0 report.

Lanificio Paoletti at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Changshu Dinghong Weaving at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Taian Daiyin Woollen Textile Co at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Lanificio Moessmer at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Changshu Dinghong-Weaving at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Cavalleri and C at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Native patterns

Continuing as a strong direction with a more refined and handcrafted approach this season, native patterns see techniques range from intricate geometric pattern weaves and hand-stitched embroidery effects through to washed-down jacquards in denim. Look to our History 2.0 report for more inspiration.

Jiangsu Shunyuan Textile Technology Co at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Lusha Textile Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Jiun Yun Industrial Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Prosperity Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Jiangsu Huaye Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Micro motifs

Micro dobby structures and bleached prints with tribal-inspired motifs have an extra worn-in or pierced effect and are popular in grainy denim and chambray qualities. Lightweight Tencel and linen blends are important for shirting and bottoms.

Jiangsu Pinytex Textile Dyeing and finishing Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Bens Mode Textiles Maker at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Yingrui Industries at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Fabrix Plus Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Prosperity Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Changzhou Create Textile Printing and Dyeing Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Prosperity Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Fabrix Plus at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Laundered linens

Linen and ramie blends are laundered and overdyed for casual shirting and pant-weights to achieve faded shades of vibrant blues and worn-down patterns for a relaxed, easy summer mood.

Linopersempre at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Hangzhou Meho Textiles Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Hausammann and Moos at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Linopersempre at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Lanificio di Tollegno at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Linopersempre at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Tactile surfaces

Soft tactile surfaces in embossed damasks, matt cloqués, padded lightweights and embossed cotton and polyester blends play an important role as bases for the season. Surface patterns are geometric with summery colours introduced as the new update for the season.

Guangdong Jianye Textile Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Dongheng Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Shanghai Dore Textile Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Rosso_Amaranto at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Konak Fashion Fabrics at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Retracted surfaces

Dimensional surfaces continue to be important with cloqué structures and unique textured jacquard weaves. Patterns are extremely abstract and organic with surface treatments created through embroidery quilting or heat embossing that can be used for outerwear.

Blue City Textile Int'l Wujiang at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Dongheng Textile at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Biboren Textile Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Hangzhou Meho Textiles Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Fabrix Plus Co Ltd at Shanghai Intertextiles spring/summer 2015

Openwork

Openwork fabrics feature for the season with grid-like structures and floral patterns. Interpretated with broderie anglaise on cottons, chiffons and faux leather options, this trend is key for casualwear and in line with our Observed and Documented textile trends.