A Surface Designer's Trend Blog: S/S 15: Intertextiles fancy analysis

By Pauline Cheung WGSN , 17 March 2014

Fancy techniques become more adventurous with a focus on dimensional surfaces as cloqués, embroidery applications, laser cutting and metallics create new directions.

Wujiang Raylace Embroidery at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Trend checklist

Coloured laces: continue with new constructions that feature brighter colours and are bonded together with different materials to create a new personality
Metallics: coloured metallics are key across all fabric categories alongside matt golds and silver seen through Lurex inclusions or foil prints for subtle shimmer
Fancy cloqués: get extremely novel this season as new techniques are offered for tactile surfaces. A popular trend for the Chinese market alongside jacquards

Bright laces

Vibrant colours update this season’s lace offer, from fresh faded pastel brights to saturated intense brights. Floral patterns are largely dominant in denser cotton blend laces.

Changzhou Shenda Warp Knitting at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Silkway Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Guangzhou J Lang Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Cicheng Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Woo Hyun Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Max Vogue at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Guangdong Jianye Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing Hongneng Textile Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Embroidered surfaces

Fancy embroidery laces with increased embroidery techniques are taken a step further with foiled overprints, Lurex yarns, burn-out embroidery effects, and delicate lace-like embroideries on mesh.

Jiun Yuh Industrial Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Shuanghao Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Jiun Yuh Industrial Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Beijing Daotex Trade Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Amiti JC Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Changzhou Shenda Warp Knitting at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Fansilk Tone Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shins Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Surface dimension

3D effects are added to fancy florals, with laser-cut appliquéd flowers and soutache techniques worked on top of prints and embroideries. Extreme femininity is seen with frilly effects and sequins offering an extra dimension.

Shaoxing County Shuanghao Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Huile Textile Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Wedtex Industrial at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Lingfeng Group at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Shuanghao Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Huile Textile Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Dots

Small, hot fix or iron-on foil treatments, printed dots and foam prints are all used as further “add on” features for plains and prints for tactile dimensional effects.

Shaoxing Yilong Weaving Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Fabrix Plus Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Wujiang Pinxin Silk Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing Kemailong Trade Co Ltd. at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Jeong In Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Fabrix Plus Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Gold metallics

Metallic finishes were used in abundance this season, deeming it an important direction for spring/summer 2015. Pale gold is favoured across jacquards, silk lamé and embroidery laces suitable for day time wear, while blackened gold lamés mix with darks for a more evening attitude. Refer to our S/S15 Fashion Forecast History 2.0 for further inspiration.

Shaoxing County Lusha Textile Co_Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Biboren Textiles at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Shuanghao Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Lusha Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Hangzhou Silk Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Guangzhou Fangyi Knitting Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Coloured metallics

Important for the season are the coloured Lurex yarn inclusions that appear in abstract motifs on jacquards and cloqué constructions, as well as adding novelty to classic tweeds.

Shaoxing County Lusha Textile Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shanghai New Leads Imp at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Amiti JC Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Lusha Textile Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shanghai Dore Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Fancy cloqués

This season, unique patterns and surface textures are seen. Patterns are seemingly organic with lots of puffy irregular crushed effects or animalistic geometrics with embossed effects in contrasting and brightened tonal colors. Enhance these finishes with liquid shine and metallic coatings.

Haining Tianyi Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Rosso Amaranto at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Max Vogue at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Biboren Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Lingfeng Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Painterly strokes

Energetic, fierce brushstrokes are expressed through painterly jacquard weaves. A monochrome palette is important for this trend highlighting silvery-greys against blacks and darkened blues.

TMR Cederna Fodere at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Woo Hyun Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shandong Tianxiang Woollen Mill at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Leopard

Leopard patterns emerge with a strong graphic effect using high-contrast colours. Mattified metallics add surface texture to fancy dress-weight jacquards and denim.

Zhejiang Yizhenjin Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shaoxing County Lusha Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Jiangsu Shunyuan Textile Technology Co at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Fabrix Plus Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

TMR Cederna Fodere SPA at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Naive florals

Orderly and repetitive patterns of uncomplicated and naive graphic florals appear with a youthful attitude working in two or three colour ways. Vitamin brights and bright punches of yellow, new blues and coral give a very summery attitude.

Jiun Yuh Industrial Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Huzhou Boxu Textile Co Ltd at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Shanghai Dore Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Haining Tianyi Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Engineered stripes

Popular this season is the mix of barré stripes and florals together in jacquard fabrics, or floral overprints mixed with satin weave striping qualities. This trend creates an engineered, abstract optical illusion of movement and shadow play. Read more from WGSN’s S/S 15 Fashion Forecast, Bio Dynamic.

Max Vogue at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Haining Tianyi Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Amiti JC Textile at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Max Vogue at Intertextile spring/summer 2015

Cutout

Geometric laser-cut patterns are seen on faux leather, printed cotton/polyester blends and neoprene-like fabrics. Patterns are kept simple with geometrics forming grid-like structures. Geometric burn-out effects on silk cottons give an alternative to laser cutting.